Four flying buttresses leaning against each other and holding up a tall square lantern, battlemented and pinnacled – a rare form of medieval crown in Britain
Pevsner Architectural Guides
Last week I wrote of Newcastle's third 'cathedral', so this week for 'balance', I write of the actual cathedral that gave Newcastle its city status. A status much more recently granted than to the likes of Cambridge, Hereford or Worcester, which became cities well over a thousand years ago. Until 1882 Newcastle was a town, and its now Church of England cathedral was simply a parish church dedicated to St Nicholas as the cathedral is today. And before I continue, I write this as someone who is not a person of faith (a non-practising Presbyterian - if such a thing exists).
The formal reason for the adoption of St Nicholas of Myra as the patron saint of Newcastle's then parish church was because he is the patron saint of sailors, so it was apt for a busy port. And with sailors in mind, the church's building included a distinctive Lantern Spire. Within that lantern at night a fire burned, offering a safeguard to sailors by being a navigation point for the Tyne. One might therefore say the church was a beacon of light for both those of faith and those going about their business on the river.
While Nicholas is an apt patron saint because of his sea-going connection, given Newcastle and the surrounding area's long industrial history and hard-working people, I also feel that Nicholas is up there when it comes to being a hard-working patron saint. As well as being that for sailors, he is the patron saint of over 120 other causes. These include children, coopers, travellers, fishers, merchants, broadcasters, the falsely accused, repentant thieves (not sure who looks after the unrepentant ones), brewers, pharmacists, archers, pawnbrokers, unmarried people, and sex workers. He's also the patron saint of over 250 places, including Prilep, Aberdeen, Galway, Russia, Greece, Liverpool, Bari, Siggiewi, Moscow, Amsterdam and Lorraine. St Nicholas is a remarkably busy chap, so it's no surprise he’s also known as the 'Wonder Worker.'
During his lifetime in the late third and early fourth centuries, Nicholas, the bishop of Myra in Turkey, was known for his generosity and gift-giving, so it’s not so much of a stretch that over the centuries, a kind-hearted man of faith has grown to become seen as the basis of the modern Santa Claus whose also known for a bit of gift giving.
Of course, the concept of a mystical gift-giver in mid-winter goes further back than Christianity. One of the earliest depictions of such a figure is from Norse mythologies. Odin, 'the father of all gods’,' described as a wispy bearded, gaunt old man wearing a hat and a cloak and often riding his eight-legged horse Sleipnir across the midwinter night's sky— quite a contrast to a jolly rotund be-whiskered man in a sleigh pulled by twelve reindeer.
As with many 'pagan' rituals and traditions, the early Christian church adapted them to their purposes. In this case, Odin becomes St. Nicholas, a figure who grew in popularity (and no doubt seen as less scary than Odin) in Europe in the Middle Ages, with his feast day, December 6th, celebrated by gift-giving and festive activities.
It's not just Odin who was 'adapted' to Christian purposes. The twelve days of Christmas come from the Norse midwinter festival of Yule, which lasted twelve days, beginning on the winter solstice. There's also the Norse worship of trees, especially the evergreens of the Scandinavian forests that, in winter, carried decorations of food and miniature carvings of the gods to encourage the tree spirits to return to bring about the new spring. Then there's the Norse Yule Log, brought ceremonially into homes and burnt on a hearth during the twelve days of Yule. Part of the log was then saved until the following year to 'protect' the home and would function as kindling for next year's Yule Log. More symbolic and practical but less tasty than today's Yule Log.
The Norse also gave us Santa's helpers. Elf is a word derived from álfar, meaning 'hidden people'. Though not the tiny, colourfully dressed characters we would recognise. The álfar were supposedly tall, pale, beautiful and supernatural humanlike beings. However, the Norse also had another mythical creature, the 'nisse', best described as looking like your typical garden gnome - short and wearing a red pointy hat. It's not too much stretch of the imagination to think that the Elves we think of today are an amalgam of those two ancient mythical creatures. And when it comes to nisse, the Norse believed the little creatures lived in stables or barns and guarded property. If you treated the nisse well, they are helpful, but mistreat them, and mischief would occur around your house. Perhaps that explains why today, the representation of Christmas elves are cheeky creatures.
And finally, from Norse legend, comes kissing under the mistletoe. A prophecy was that Odin's son Balder was to die, so his mother Frigg visited every entity in the cosmos to secure an oath that they wouldn't harm her son. However, Frigg ignored the mistletoe, believing it was too small and harmless to threaten her son's life. Keeping the story short, the mischievous god Loki then carved an arrow from mistletoe that eventually caused Balder's death. Frigg's tears of sorrow then fell onto what were then the red berries of the mistletoe, turning them white and resurrecting her son. Thus, mistletoe came to stand for renewal, love and peace, with Frigg promising to kiss anyone who passed beneath it.
But let's return to St Nicholas and specifically the incredible cathedral dedicated to his name. While not a man of faith, I still admire the stunning building as a testament to Newcastle's rich history and architectural heritage. The Cathedral's exterior is a beautiful blend of various architectural styles that have evolved over centuries and are characterised by the elegantly warm honey-coloured sandstone that has weathered gracefully over time. The Norman influence is visible in the rounded arches and solid, sturdy construction of the lower portions. The Gothic elements transition upwards, with pointed arches, delicate tracery, and expansive windows adorned with intricate stained glass, depicting scenes from religious stories and historical events, allowing filtered light to flood the interior. As with many grand churches, cathedrals, abbeys etc., the exterior is adorned with intricate carvings detailing stories from the Bible, saints, and historical events, adding a sense of narrative depth to the structure. Gargoyles and grotesques peer out from various points, serving as decorative elements and functional waterspouts. I've already mentioned the 15th-century masterpiece of artisanry, and the cathedral's most prominent feature, its soaring tower and lantern spire.
Many of the stained-glass windows reflect Christian iconography. However, a number represent the industrial achievements of the northeast, depicting engineering, shipbuilding, coal mining, etc. While the dedication of some windows is to those who served and sacrificed in wartime. One is of the Danish Merchant Marine who were based in Newcastle during the Second World War. Another window is so designed as to depict in coloured glass the outline of a Spitfire. My favourite, however, is the 'First Supper', and I mean no offence here as those of the Cathedral give this window that name. It is a beautiful early 15th-century roundel within a large piece of glass depicting Mary breastfeeding the baby Jesus. It is rare, as in the 1600s, the Christian Church discouraged such images on the grounds of decency. I should add that this is not the view of today's Christian Church. Of course, within the Cathedral, there is also the more traditional depiction of the Last Supper. It is a classic scene, but the artist who created it chose to give Judas not only his pieces of silver but both a black halo and ginger hair. Guess those with red hair can't catch a break.
As with many places of Christian worship in the UK, there are tributes to various people; artists, architects, merchants, politicians, those who served in times of conflict, teachers, and those of the church and craftspeople. Prominently in the Cathedral is the memorial to Lord Cuthbert Collingwood, who was baptised and married there.
Technically Lord Nelson's 'righthand man' at the Battle of Trafalgar Collingwood assumed command after Nelson's death and saw the victory won. Nelson and Collingwood were in deep contrast to each other. Nelson enjoyed his celebrity and dallied long with Lady Hamilton in Naples before the Admiralty felt compelled to order him home. Collingwood, by contrast, was a Navy man and never saw his family or home again after Trafalgar. While not engaged in any tremendous naval action, the Admiralty asked him to take part in critical (in their eyes) political and diplomatic transactions in the Mediterranean because of his reputation for tact and good judgment. His request being denied for relief of his command so that he might return home.
Sadly, after four years, his health rapidly declined because of cancer, and he again requested the Admiralty to allow him to return home. This time they agreed, but the good Collingwood died onboard the ship that was bringing him back to the northeast. He now rightly lies beside Nelson in the crypt of St Paul's Cathedral.
As with any old building, the Cathedral holds some mysteries. It's most mysterious is the tomb of a knight dating from before 1350. He's the oldest 'resident' in the Cathedral, but who he was or why he's there is now lost to time, although the pattern on his shield suggests he may have been of the Scrope family, who were local lords in the twelfth century.
My visits to the Cathedral are more temporal than spiritual. I've visited art exhibitions and installations and enjoyed tours covering the history of the Cathedral and its place within the history of Newcastle. While the tours touch on the faith of the people commemorated in the Cathedral, there is no attempt to preach but more to help visitors understand how the practice of the Christian religion has evolved along with the role of the Cathedral in the lives of people today.
As well as its rich history, the Cathedral has a contemporary relevance. Of course, as a place of worship but it also hosts classical music concerts, art exhibitions and other inclusive community celebrations, such as that for the LGBTQ+ community during Pride Week.
I took the photograph above during a recent art exhibition (and before
raises an eyebrow, I relaxed my usual rule of not photographing artworks in situ as this was a temporary piece)It's the 'Brass Eagle takes Flight' by Frederick Worrell, a UK-based award-winning Māori artist and designer. There is a long Christian tradition of eagle lecterns crafted in wood and brass, with talons grasping a globe and wings, depicting the word of God carried to every part of the world. However, many of those seen in churches today are from the Victorian era, reviving a tradition that fell out of favour in the Reformation, with many eagle lecterns destroyed in the Cromwellian period.
Newcastle Cathedral's brass eagle is one of only forty-five examples of pre-Reformation eagles. In Frederick's work, this brass eagle has taken flight in a piece that evokes the symbolism and beauty of stained-glass windows that bring light to the Cathedral's dark, high walls and ceiling.
As I wrote at the beginning, I am not a person of faith, but I enjoy visiting Newcastle Cathedral for its history and welcoming relevance to the people of Newcastle today. I've found everyone associated with the Cathedral, be that clergy, lay preachers and volunteers, keen to engage in conversation and share information and anecdotes with anyone who visits, irrespective of their religion. On the last tour I attended, led by someone from the Cathedral, were people of the Catholic and Jewish faiths, those who follow Islam and people like me, 'non-believers'. No one felt uncomfortable. Instead, as we strolled around the Cathedral, marvelling at its masterpieces, we found ourselves in gentle discussion to better understand and clear up misconceptions in our respective beliefs or, in my case, non-beliefs. If only such intelligent debate went on in the broader world.
Good
As you are in a Christian place I forgive you!