Chippenham a.k.a 'Little Bath'

A photograph and a few words....

“For in prosperity a man is often puffed up with pride, whereas tribulations chasten and humble him through suffering and sorrow. In the midst of prosperity the mind is elated, and in prosperity a man forgets himself; in hardship he is forced to reflect on himself, even though he be unwilling. In prosperity a man often destroys the good he has done; amidst difficulties he often repairs what he long since did in the way of wickedness.”

King Alfred the Great

I meandered over two hundred and fifty miles south and west a week ago to meet with friends of long-standing, those more recent and ex-colleagues. Some thirteen years ago, my wife Sarah and I moved to Chippenham in Wiltshire from Hertfordshire as I accepted a role that would be the last great 'hurrah' of my business career before retirement. On this return visit, I immensely enjoyed meeting familiar faces as I travelled between Bristol, Bath, Corsham and Chippenham. Still, I studiously avoided checking out the houses in which Sarah and I lived. Even so, I confess that I felt both nostalgic and, at times, melancholic during the trip. One can never say never, but right now, I don't see myself venturing that way again in the near future. There are too many other places to visit, people to meet, and things to do. But I hope that on one of my future London trips, there'll be an opportunity to meet those I wined, dined, laughed, and conversed with during this visit.

Not long after moving to Chippenham, my perception of the town underwent a profound transformation. What I at first thought was a nondescript, sleepy market town suddenly revealed itself to be a place brimming with rich history. This shift in perspective was my discovery of the town's fascinating past.

An early discovery was of a 1960s tragic car accident that happened close to the first house in Chippenham, into which Sarah and I moved. The accident claimed the life of Eddie Cochran, the songwriter and singer, who was travelling to London airport after a performance in Bristol. A combination of excessive speed and poor control by Eddie's driver meant the vehicle came to grief, with Eddie ultimately losing his life. At the time, the then-owners of our house were the first to aid and offer comfort to all five casualties from the car, of whom all survived except Eddie.

Eddie Cochran wrote and sang some rock and roll classics like Summertime Blues, C'mon Everybody, Somethin' Else, and Three Steps to Heaven that left an indelible mark on many people. His memory clearly lives on, as shown by the flowers that always adorned his memorial, suitably made up of three steps left by his perennial followers.

After I retired, I volunteered for a few years in a Chippenham Primary School as a 'School Reader', helping six- and seven-year-olds with their reading skills. I also volunteered at the Chippenham Museum. I enjoyed both activities, which were extremely rewarding in separate ways. One activity I especially liked in the museum was 'Artefact Handling' for visitors. I showed off many artefacts from prehistoric to more recent times, attempting to engage visitors with the fascinating stories behind each piece. My favourite was a Victorian 'skirt lifter', and no, it's not something naughty, but an efficient device used by ladies of the time (and one never sees put to use in supposedly historically 'authentic' TV series or films). I also led history walks around the town, sharing anecdotes and historical facts about the town's past.

While there is no evidence of a Roman settlement on the site of modern-day Chippenham, archaeological finds show evidence of habitation, from at least Roman times, in the area around the modern town. Roman farm settlements near Chippenham suggest that the area was an important local centre even in antiquity. However, the belief is that the Saxons, around 600 CE, established the beginnings of the modern-day town near the River Avon.

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, the early written history of the Anglo-Saxons in Britain compiled late in the ninth century, records the town as Cippanhamme. This might refer to Cippa, who had his 'Hamm', the Saxon word for an enclosure in a river meadow. An alternative theory (as ever, there is always an alternative theory) suggests that the name derives from the Saxon word 'cheap', meaning 'market'. Records show the town's name over the centuries as Cippanhamm, Cepen, Cheppeham, Chippenham, Shippenham and Chippyngham. An early 17th-century map of Wiltshire includes both "Chippenham" (for the 'hundred' - in Anglo-Saxon times, the name given to the amount of land needed to support a peasant family) and "Chipnam" (for the town).

Chippenham was in the Saxon kingdom of Wessex. Bishop Asser's Life of King Alfred (whom the Victorians would promote to be 'The Great'), written circa 888, records Chippenham as a royal vill (a centre for the administration of a subdivision of a kingdom) as well as probably a royal hunting lodge. Æthelswith (King Alfred's sister) married King Burgred of Mercia (one of the major Angle kingdoms) at Chippenham. Alfred was then a boy of four, and the wedding was held at the site of what is now St Andrew's parish church.

By the late 9th century, with King Alfred on the throne of Wessex, Viking raids had seen the Norse invaders, often referred to as the Danes or the 'Heathen Army' (All Anglo-Saxon kingdoms now Christian), establish themselves in much of England, with only Wessex and north Northumbria free from Viking control (but not their raids). Guthrum, a leader of that 'Heathen Army', aimed to conquer Wessex and thus achieve Norse rule over all Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. His conflict with King Alfred, in which there were several vital battles, forms a crucial chapter in the Viking-Anglo-Saxon wars. 

The first important battle between the two leaders was the Siege of Wareham when Guthrum's forces captured the fortified town of Wareham in Dorset. Alfred then negotiated a peace agreement to curtail Guthrum's territorial ambition. (A British Prime Minister tried the same technique in 1938 with a certain Adolf Hitler). However, the Vikings broke their oath and slipped away to Exeter (Hitler didn't keep his promise either). Alfred pursued them, leading to the Battle of Exeter, when Alfred blockaded Guthrum in the town, compelling him to seek peace again. And again, the Vikings swore oaths and gave hostages, but as ever, they broke their promises and continued their raids.

On Twelfth Night 878, Alfred was celebrating Christmas in Chippenham when, in a surprise attack, Guthrum launched an assault on the town, catching the Saxons off guard. The attack forced Alfred to flee to the Somerset Levels, where he took refuge in the marshes of Athelney. Guthrum occupied Chippenham, and at this point, the Vikings had technically conquered all the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms as Alfred, hiding away, looked to regroup and prepare for a counterattack.

This happened in May of the same year at the Battle of Edington (recorded as Ethandun) when Alfred, leaving the Somerset Levels with his newly formed army, confronted Guthrum in a fiercely contested battle from which Alfred's forces ultimately prevailed. This victory was decisive for once and led to the Treaty of Wedmore, compelling Guthrum to negotiate a permanent peace. Among other things, the treaty stipulated that Guthrum would withdraw from Wessex and convert to Christianity, Alfred standing as Guthrum's godfather during his baptism. The treaty symbolised a significant shift in relations between the Saxons and the Danes, with Guthrum receiving the Christian name Athelstan and retiring to East Anglia, where he ruled as a Christian king but as part of the Danelaw.

The Treaty of Wedmore effectively divided England into Viking and Anglo-Saxon areas of control. But at least the treaty allowed Alfred to consolidate his rule over Wessex and later expand his influence over Mercia. He was helped in no small way by Æthelflæd, his eldest daughter, who, after the death of her husband, the King of Mercia, ruled as Lady of the Mercians.

Alfred's successes against the Danes were not merely due to battlefield tactics but also innovations in military organisation. Alfred restructured his army, creating a system of burhs or burgs (fortified settlements) that provided defensive strongholds against Viking raids. He also built a navy to counter the Viking longships, laying the foundations for English naval power. The conflicts with Guthrum and the later treaties laid the groundwork for a more unified English kingdom. Alfred's leadership and reforms were instrumental in preserving Anglo-Saxon culture and law during intense Viking pressure. His promotion of education and legal reform had lasting effects on English society. Guthrum's conversion to Christianity marked a significant cultural shift. It facilitated more peaceful relations between the Anglo-Saxons and the Vikings in England, contributing to the eventual assimilation of the Norse settlers into English society. Most historians now see Athelstan (not the newly named Guthrum), but Alfred's grandson, as the first King of the English from around one hundred years after Alfred's fortunate escape from Chippenham.

One can only guess how different the world might be today if Guthrum's attack at Chippenham had led to Alfred's capture and the Vikings establishing complete control over all Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. Unlike the more centralised control Angle and Saxon kings preferred, Viking governance was often characterised by a looser, more decentralised system. So the Viking approach to government would have led, at least initially, to a more fragmented political structure, with various Norse lords and chieftains holding sway over different regions much smaller than the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, which in turn could have delayed the development of a unified island state and affected the nature of later political entities in the Isles that made up Britain. Even if, at some point, all the Viking regions had unified in some way, the land would not have the name England (the land of the Angles), and its people or language would not carry the name English. There would be no Richard the Lionheart, Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, Charles I (or Oliver Cromwell) or Queen Victoria.

Viking dominance would mean the imposition of the Viking legal traditions, such as the use of 'Things' (assemblies) for decision-making, across Viking Britain. The Norse practice of trial by combat and other unique legal customs would have become entrenched, altering the development of a common law. Norse influence would have led to different urban centres than those in England today, perhaps modelled on Scandinavian trade towns like Hedeby or Birka. This would have influenced cities' architectural and infrastructural development, with a greater emphasis on fortifications and trade facilities.

The Norse language would have had a much more profound influence. Old Norse affected Old English with only partial Viking occupation, so a complete conquest would have increased this influence, leading to a dominantly Norse-speaking population. This linguistic shift would have extended to literature, law, and daily life, shaping Britain's cultural identity very differently from the Anglo-Saxons.

The Vikings were renowned traders and navigators. A Viking-ruled Britain would have seen a more maritime-oriented economy, with stronger trade connections across the North Sea and into the wider Viking trade networks, including connections with the Byzantine Empire, the Islamic Caliphates, and beyond. This could have accelerated economic development and cultural exchanges, making Britain a central hub in a more expansive Viking trading empire.

A Viking conquest would have delayed or altered the Christianisation of Britain. While many Vikings eventually converted to Christianity, their first pagan beliefs would have persisted longer, potentially creating a syncretic religious landscape. The process of Christianisation, which played a significant role in shaping medieval European culture and institutions, would have been slower or different. Norse mythology and sagas would have played a more prominent role in British culture, influencing art, literature, and folklore. The rich tradition of Norse mythological narratives might have blended with local legends, creating a vastly distinct cultural tapestry than exists today.

A Viking-controlled Britain would likely have a different relationship with continental Europe, including the Holy Roman Empire, the Frankish kingdoms, and the Papacy. The island might have been more integrated into Scandinavian political and military alliances, potentially altering the balance of power in Europe. The Norse were early explorers, reaching as far as North America. A Viking Britain might have continued this tradition, possibly altering the timing and nature of European colonisation.

It’s impossible to know how the world might now be, following the capture of one man on a wintery night in early January 878 in Chippenham, a small town in Wiltshire. But it would have been a major turning point in world history, that’s for sure.

As it was, Chippenham continued to thrive as a market town, even after the Norman conquest of England, which also would not have happened if Guthrum had won out, as the Normans were the outcome of the intermingling between Viking settlers and locals of West Francia and therefore, were more natural allies to a Viking-controlled Britain. So, the Norman 'French' influence on the English language would not have occurred - no words such as mansion, pork, beef or progeny. And no Norman Romanesque architecture with its formidable castles, keeps and grandiose monasteries, abbeys, churches and cathedrals. My home city might still have been substantial, but it wouldn’t carry the name given to it by the Normans of Newcastle.

As it is the Domesday Book of 1086 records Chippenham as a significant settlement with a population of about six hundred people, which was substantial for that time. During the 16th and 17th Centuries, Chippenham's market continued to be a focal point of the local economy. Queen Mary I (known more widely as 'Bloody Mary') granted Chippenham a 'Charter of Incorporation' in 1554, which allowed the town to elect its officials, significantly enhancing its autonomy and political significance and helping the further expansion of its wool trade. That trade was now a prominent part of the town partly due to the proximity of the River Avon and the fact that the medieval road network that linked London to Bristol ran through Chippenham (the current A4 road incorporates part of that very road). This was an important road for the English cloth trade, so Bristol cloth merchants partially funded its upkeep.

The town also saw the construction of several notable buildings during this period. A photograph of one of those buildings graces the beginning of this piece, but more on Yelde Hall later. The plague hit the town hard in the early 17th century, followed by a recession in the wool industry and a drop in corn production. This combination of events caused massive hardship for the town's population. The cloth trade faced further problems during the English Civil War due to a Royalist proclamation that prohibited the sale of cloth to Parliamentarian-controlled London.

The Civil War didn’t just hit trade hard. While the town was not a significant battleground, its strategic location meant it saw military occupation by Royalist and Roundhead troops at various times. Control of Chippenham changed hands between the two ten times during the nine years of the wars. And each new incumbent levied a 10% duty on the town's people. Chippenham was not a cheap place to live during those years. I believe that Oliver Cromwell and King Charles I spent a night (not the same night, I should add) in the town's 'The White Hart' coaching inn. In 1649, Cromwell stayed there before the Battle of Worcester. Two years later, Charles used it to meet his supporters during the war. Rumour has it Cromwell did not pay his bill. A fact I very much doubt, given that he was a devout Puritan and would no doubt pay any debt owed and thus avoid the wrath of God. That once inn is still there but is now a branch of the food outlet chain ‘Iceland’. The stables are now a car park.

The Industrial Revolution brought significant changes to Chippenham. The arrival of the Great Western Railway in the 19th century transformed the town. Improved transportation links spurred economic growth, increasing industrial activity and population growth. Chippenham was a significant centre for producing dairy and ham products; this led to Nestlé and Matteson's having factories in the town centre. The railway also led to the growth of railway engineering works in Chippenham: the first in 1842 was Roland Brotherhood, whose company made components for the railway. Various companies making railway components then arrived. In 1935, Westinghouse Brake and Signal Company Ltd bought them all. The signalling side of the business is still in Chippenham, owned by Siemens Rail Automation Group; the German company Knorr-Brems bought the brakes business.

In addition to railway engineering, Chippenham became known for its agricultural machinery production, and the Victorian era saw further development in public services and infrastructure. There was also the building of new schools and churches, reflecting the town's growing prosperity and the social changes of the time. The influence of Bath's Georgian architecture and urban design may have also extended to Chippenham. As Bath became a model for spa towns, its architectural style and town planning influenced the development of other towns. Chippenham adopted similar designs in its buildings and public spaces, earning it the title "Little Bath" for a while.

Chippenham's representation in the English parliament goes back to 1295, during the reign of Edward I when two burgesses (Members of Parliament) looked after the town's interests. In contrast, Newcastle-upon-Tyne only achieved parliamentary representation some fifty years later, and Manchester over five hundred years later!!

The 18th century saw Chippenham as a 'pocket borough,' a parliamentary constituency controlled by a patron who could influence the election of MPs. Such control was often exercised through economic or social influence, leading to a lack of genuine representation for the town's inhabitants. That political landscape changed significantly with the Reform Act of 1832, which aimed to eliminate many pocket boroughs and redistribute parliamentary representation more equitably. Although Chippenham kept its representation, there was an expansion of the electorate, reducing the influence of local patrons and thus increasing democratic participation. However, tensions remained high in the town. While the Reform Act had extended the electorate, many working-class people remained disenfranchised and dissatisfied with their lack of representation. Tensions worsened in Chippenham due to local political disputes. The town had a history of electoral corruption and contentious elections (In 1747, a bribery and corruption scandal involving the two MPs for Chippenham led to the downfall of Sir Robert Walpole's government). This dissatisfaction with the political status quo and economic hardship, with many working-class people in Chippenham facing poor living conditions and job insecurity, led to a volatile atmosphere that erupted on October 2, 1865.

The immediate trigger for the Chippenham' Riot' was the outcome of the parliamentary election in 1865. Allegations of corruption and bribery marred the election. When it became clear that the candidate favoured by many working-class people had lost, anger boiled over into violence. Crowds gathered in the town centre, initially to protest peacefully. However, the situation deteriorated as tensions rose. Rioters attacked the properties of perceived political opponents and local officials. Looting shops, smashing windows and setting several buildings on fire. The scale of the riot initially overwhelmed the Local Authorities, and it took several hours to restore order. The police, supported by local militia, eventually quelled the mob, but not before severely damaging parts of the town.

In the aftermath, several rioters were arrested and prosecuted. The legal proceedings highlighted the deep-seated issues of electoral corruption and social inequality. The riot exposed the harsh realities faced by the working class in Chippenham and similar towns across England, underscoring the urgent need for national social and economic reforms. The people of Chippenham were not alone in their unhappiness. Eventually, the Reform Act of 1867 expanded the franchise and aimed to reduce electoral corruption.

But rather than dwell on riots, let's look at a building that has seen and outlived riots, plagues, famines, civil wars, and two world wars. The Yelde Hall I mentioned earlier, from analysis of the wood used to build it, dates to around 1450 in the reign of Henry VI. The origin of the name Yelde is uncertain. It may be from the Saxon word for 'old', or it may be from a relationship to a medieval Guild. It is, however, a common term for this type of building in the Southwest of England. There is debate as to the correct pronunciation. It could be 'Yeeld' – to rhyme with 'peeled' or 'Yeld' to rhyme with 'held'. Whatever, it's a prime example of medieval architecture featuring an ample ground floor space with an open timber roof supported by impressive oak beams reflecting its time's construction techniques and design aesthetics. Its preservation offers valuable insights into the architectural and civic history of Chippenham.

The primary function of the Yelde was where local officials, the Lord of the Hundred and the town Burgess and Bailiff, held meetings and trials, such as the Hundred Courts, the Courts Baron and Courts Lets and the Petty Sessions. It also hosted the district judge and magistrates during their quarter-session visit. These meetings controlled all aspects of civic life: rents and fees, land tenures and disputes, weights and measures, and the judging of general misdemeanours and petty crime. The early 1600s saw the addition of an upstairs Council Chamber. It functioned primarily for the Bailiff and Burgess to hold town council meetings. The Yelde was also the 'church house' (parish hall) for holding fundraising events for the local church. During the hall's early life, it may have also functioned as the town's market hall. However, this use had stopped by at least the 1580s with the building of the nearby shops and shambles (the butchery area of a town; the word probably comes from the Anglo-Saxon word Fleshammels(flesh-shelves). However, the hall remained the place for collecting tolls from sellers in the market.

There has been a jail / 'Lock Up' at the back of the Yelde Hall since its earliest beginnings. It may even be older than the main hall itself, which hints that the Yelde Hall replaced an earlier building. In its life as a town jail, the lockup would hold local drunks and petty criminals. However, records show that in the Bailiff's Account Book of 1709, the town provided one set of prisoners, "1s 0d and 7 quarts of ale for the six pirates in custody". Belief is they were in the Lock-Up overnight en route from Bristol to London for trial. Whatever their ultimate fate, at least they didn’t leave Chippenham thirsty!

But in more recent times, the Yelde Hall’s purpose has changed. From 1822 until 1846, the Chippenham Savings Bank used the Yelde. Then, the upstairs Council Chamber room and part of the main hall became the Armoury of the Chippenham detachment of the Wiltshire Regiment Volunteer Rifle Corps. There are 'cut-out' indents on the benches under a window in the chamber where the butts of the rifles would stand.

In 1870, the local Fire Brigade used part of the hall as a fire station. Later, they took over the entire hall and kept all their equipment inside. The Brigade made some substantial changes to the interior to fit the engines in. Volunteers restored one of those magnificent horse-drawn contraptions some years ago, and it is now in situ in the Hall. By the 19th century, the condition of Yelde Hall had deteriorated with time taking its toll on the building, and there were even thoughts of demolishing it. However, local efforts to preserve this historic structure gained momentum, recognising its cultural and historical significance. Restoration efforts to protect Yelde Hall stabilised the timber frame and restored it to its former glory. Today, Yelde Hall is part of the Chippenham Museum and Heritage Centre. As I mentioned, I volunteered there for three years, so it's only fitting to give that museum in the heart of Chippenham a shout-out.

The museum is not a dusty old place, but a vibrant institution dedicated to preserving and highlighting the rich heritage of the local area. It offers a comprehensive insight into the town's history, from prehistoric times to the modern day. Established in 1963 and housed in an 18th-century townhouse (which may well be on the site where Alfred was enjoying Christmas until Guthrum and his men made their uninvited appearance), the museum has become a cornerstone of community engagement and education.

The museum's collection spans many artefacts that highlight the region's history. This includes archaeological finds from prehistoric times, Roman artefacts, and items from the medieval period. There's also a strong emphasis on the town's industrial past, particularly its role in the cloth trade. The museum houses a variety of objects related to this industry, including tools, machinery, and samples of local textiles, showing how the cloth trade influenced the town's economy and social structure. Portraits of notable local figures, including artists, politicians, and other prominent residents, are on display.

Additionally, it covers momentous events in the town's history, such as the Chippenham Riot of 1865 and its impact on the community. And it's not just ancient artefacts on display; Chippenham Museum boasts an impressive art collection and hosts many art exhibitions that often focus on local artists with fresh and engaging content, including Turner Prize winners. 

Bath, that pretty city of Roman heritage, Georgian splendour, Jane Austen, Mary Shelley, and Lord Nelson, is often on the list of places visitors to southwest England choose to admire. Some of those visitors might now wish to travel a few miles to the east and take in a small market town that might arguably have a richer and deeper role in England's history.